Cotton vs Lycra Leggings for Kurtis: Which Fabric Should You Buy?

Most legging complaints come down to fabric. Leggings that bag at the knee by afternoon, leggings that go see-through when you bend, leggings that are miserable in July — each is a fabric problem. Here's how the three main legging fabrics compare when you're wearing them under a kurti.

The three fabrics at a glance

100% cotton leggings

Pure cotton is the most breathable option and the gentlest on sensitive skin. It's the pick for hot days, long outdoor functions and lounging. The trade-off: cotton has less recovery than lycra blends, so it can relax at the knee over a long day.

Try our black cotton leggings or the beige skin-fit pair — $19 in XL and XXL.

Cotton-lycra leggings

A blend of mostly cotton with a little lycra for stretch gives you the comfort of cotton with much better shape retention. Ours are 95% cotton and 5% lycra, in a thick fabric with a silicon-wash finish that makes them smoother to the touch. Thickness is what you want under a kurti with high side slits: the fabric stays opaque when it stretches.

See the black, maroon, dark navy and wine cotton-lycra leggings, all $15.

4-way lycra leggings

"4-way" means the fabric stretches both lengthwise and crosswise, so it moves with you when you sit cross-legged, kneel at a puja or dance at a sangeet, and springs back afterward. Ours are ankle-length, with a 195–210 GSM mid-weight fabric, a silicon-wash finish and a belt-style waistband that stays put. They come in the widest color range we carry — more than 20 shades, from mustard and peach to petrol blue — at $15, in sizes up to 3XL.

What does GSM mean?

GSM is grams per square meter — a measure of fabric weight. Higher GSM generally means a denser fabric that's less likely to go sheer when stretched. Around 200 is a solid mid-weight for everyday leggings: substantial enough to wear under a short kurti, light enough for most of the year.

Which should you buy?

• Hot climate or sensitive skin → 100% cotton
• Short or high-slit kurtis → cotton-lycra (thickest)
• Color matching a specific kurti → 4-way lycra (most shades)
• Long days with lots of sitting and movement → 4-way lycra (best recovery)
• Festivals and parties → shimmer leggings

Care that makes leggings last

• Wash inside out in cold water.
• Skip fabric softener on lycra blends; it coats the fibers and weakens stretch.
• Air dry. The dryer is the fastest way to a baggy knee.

Where to start

Browse every fabric in our leggings collection, and see our guide to leggings for kurtis and salwar suits for length and color matching. Orders ship from California within 24 hours.